Roman Roadtrip in Cornwall

 

When I was at school I distinctly remember being told that the Romans never conquered the Cornish, that the county and the people were too wild for them and, like the Scottish in the north, they decided we were best left alone.

It is now common knowledge that that is not entirely true and I have a feeling that the myth was only perpetuated for so long by Cornish pride.  We are,
you see, passionate about our status as a Celtic nation, a fact that our fellow Celts often forget. I was once involved in a heated (in more ways than one) debate on a Mayan ruin in the jungles of Honduras when a Scotsman insisted on called us English.  Anyway back to the Romans, we do have lots of evidence that they had control over Cornwall, The Royal Cornwall Museum in Truro has plenty off artefacts that the invaders left behind from coins to roof tiles.

However anyone who knows the county well will know that they had absolutely no effect on our roads. Windy doesn’t even come close in most cases.  We like a bendy back-lane in these parts.  Goodness knows how the Roman legions stayed in formation in Cornwall! But20160320_145714 that is not to say they didn’t make it south of the Tamar and as they gradually migrated towards Lands End they marked their progress.

I decided to set myself a little challenge, to locate and photograph Cornwall’s Roman milestones. The ones that I could find anyway.  I am not entirely sure how many there are lying around, after all when all is said and done they are merely well-weathered pieces of local granite, but I know of five. Four of them are easy to locate, like all the random finds of a parish they usually end up near a church.  Random they may be, but special none the less.  When you consider that there are only 20 such milestones know in the whole of England then these weather-worn lumps of rock take on new meaning.   Add the names of the Emperors that they also commemorated – Gallus, Marcus Cassianus Poshimus, Constantine and Galerius Valerius Licinianus – they become almost magical I think.

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St Hilary Church AD306-307
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St Materiana Church AD308-324

 

These stones are ancient memorials, reminders if you like, to a time almost completely vanished from our landscape here in Cornwall and also a period of our history that we barely acknowledge happened.  To me this makes their lichen covered, grey lumpiness all the more special!  They may look like plain pieces of granite, the writing may be difficult to see and for me impossible to read but their value is, I think, immeasurable to our little patch of the ancient world.  They are, like Cornwall’s Oldest Road, the solid evidence of a forgotten time.

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Breage Church AD 258-268
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Trethevy AD 251-253

 

 

 

 

NB: As I said there are 5 stones that I know of, the fifth I was unable to photograph as it stands on private land and can only be viewed by appointment.

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5 thoughts on “Roman Roadtrip in Cornwall

  1. A Musing Bear Tales March 31, 2016 / 10:09 am

    thank you for that wonderful post. Like you, when I studied Roman history, I don’t recall ever reading/hearing about the Romans going there. I only hope that, one day soon, I get to see your area in person. From the legends of Arthur to Roman legions to Doc Martin, Cornwall just begs for me to visit.

    Liked by 2 people

    • esdale77 March 31, 2016 / 10:12 am

      Thank you 😃 I really think that for such a small area of the UK Cornwall really does have so much to offer, but then I am a little biased!! 😉

      Liked by 1 person

  2. onagol March 31, 2016 / 11:00 am

    I still think it’s fair to say the Romans never “conquered” Cornwall. There’s evidence in Greek writings of trade between the Cornish and Mediterranean civilizations and no reason to suppose this wouldn’t have included the Romans. So, probably more accurate to say the Celtic tribes of Cornwall didn’t need to be conquered as they were all getting on famously beforehand anyway 🙂

    Well, that’s my take on it…

    Liked by 2 people

    • esdale77 March 31, 2016 / 11:51 am

      I do agree, I have always argued that Cornwall was never the isolated, backward place that many people believed (and still do) because records show we were trading with all kinds of people from the med and beyond. Places like Penzance were actually very international. Interesting stuff 😃

      Liked by 2 people

  3. Ellen Hawley April 16, 2016 / 8:45 am

    I knew about the stone at Trethevy (just down the twisty road from us), but not the one at St. Materiana. I’ll have to go searching for it.

    Liked by 1 person

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